Collectors Revive Interest in Nigeria’s Aso Oke

Nigerian designer Michelle Adepoju’s discovery of vintage aso oke in Ondo has evolved into a mission to preserve and revalue one of the Yoruba people’s most distinctive textiles. She initially upcycled the fabric into trousers and dresses. However, she soon shifted her focus to educating the public and presenting the textiles as cultural artifacts. Adepoju’s collection now contains more than 500 pieces, some dating to the 1940s. She displays the textiles in her Lagos shop, alongside contemporary designs from her fashion brand. Collectors and dealers say aso oke has historically been undervalued because its weaving techniques remained largely within Nigeria, many master weavers have died, and African art scholars have long favored masks and sculpture. Yet interest is growing as collectors recognize the craftsmanship, history, and symbolism embedded in the fabrics. Experts describe three classic types: sanyan, etu, and alaari. Beyond their visual appeal, some textiles carry traditional beliefs—including the protective associations attached to etu—which add cultural meaning to their monetary value.